The orthodox cathedral, which my hotel’s receptionist described as „the temple“ is beautiful, majestic, and right where it should be, in the midst of average income residences. I was lucky enough to visit while a mass was in session, and found the experience moving. The interior is aglow with Byzantine representations of saints, the walls and ceiling golden. The sense one gets is of the mystical, knowledge, classical antiquity, the heights humanity can reach rather than the pain and sorrow of the Roman Catholic sensual cult of victimhood.